09: Objects of Affection

on finding inspiration and the importance of jewellery.

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Objects of Affection is a segment I’m workshopping where I break down my love for either a specific object or type of objects and their ability to inspire us and elevate our everyday. The definition of an ‘object’ remains broad: a thing that forms an element of or constitutes the subject matter of an investigation or science - i.e. ‘objects of study’ (via Merriam-Webster).

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I’m thinking of my friends in L.A. extra lately - many of whom have had to evacuate their homes or have lost them altogether. The incredible Cat Chen compiled a working list of funds for homes that need rebuilding. I’m not sure if this will still be in effect by the time this is published, but instead of ordering takeout this week, I’ve ordered meals for for the LA fire department via Le Great Outdoor and donated to the Los Angeles Fire Department. If you are able to help in any way, big or small, it is so appreciated.

Before we get to the meat and bones of it all, in case you missed last week’s Meja, I discussed the results of testing out the Goop detox for the fourth time, learning to love my changing body, and the perfect winter capsule wardrobe. The latter part especially provides a foundation for what’s next.

One amendment to Capsule Wardrobe II: I neglected to mention this COS sweater, which retails for USD$250 and comes in just about every colour imaginable.

Anyway. The rest of this post is over the email limit, so I suggest opening it in the Substack app for the full experience.

When I was subcontracting for Alex Eagle, it was the early days of the pandemic and we were all feeling ungrounded. She, being the affluent tastemaker-with-a-golden-touch that she is, frequently put together this incredible playlist series called “Brightness in the Bleakness”. Each edition was short, but they offered a spark of joy and inspiration during a dark time. And sadly I can’t find them anywhere.

All that to say. Winter is a bleak time for dressing and inspiration, especially in Toronto where the style is already severely monotonous. The problem is that I don’t live somewhere with what I term a ‘chic winter’ (Paris, London…). As I’m writing, it feels like -20 degrees Celsius with winds whipping along the streets. Off camera I find myself dressing at maximum casual, not by choice, but out of necessity. Most days look like this:

Ultra chic, no?

There’s only so much inspiration you can glean from repeating leggings with high boots and a turtleneck. It’s too cold to feel comfortable in anything that’s not ultimately cozy, and yet I still crave feeling put together and elegant and, oh, I don’t know, cool I guess?

Since I’m not necessarily about to forego my trusty formula for warmth (one of my resolutions this year is to use Uber less…I don’t know how that’s going but I’m trying), I’ve had to get just the slightest bit creative. So I’ve looked to something slightly (emphasis on slightly) smaller in scale to up the ante of my outfits: jewellery.

Thoroughly embarrassed that this was an actual Google search but here we are.

I love jewellery. My mum calls me a magpie for my mere attraction to shiny objects. I can’t help it - I love how precious and powerful jewellery can feel, I love the conversations it can start, I love how it’s like wearing armour. I’ve been slowly collecting Elsa Peretti artifacts for years (all the niche style girls are, but whatever), and wearing them all at once is ridiculous and lavish and very fun. And fun is something that I’m trying to pursue more of in order to make frigid temperatures more bearable.

The formula is simple: the more the merrier. We all know the adage “remove one piece of jewellery before leaving the house” (à la Chanel), but frankly I’m over it.

You’ve seen that Juju Vera Petra shell pendant everywhere, I know it. I love how it looks like an heirloom piece, which inspired me to go actually hunting for the real thing. I’ve found so much joy in perusing vintage jewellery and various objects of affection at vintage and consignment stores around Toronto.

It all started when I went to The Cat’s Meow in search of a bridesmaid’s dress, and turned my attention to the accessories case at the front of the store. I was confronted with intricate brooches, ornate hair pins, elaborate clutches, and copious variations of clip-on costume earrings. What a feast for the eyes! Below are my favourite discoveries:

Finds from The Cat's Meow jewellery cabinet

My favourite objects included a clutch in the shape of a lion, encrusted in multicoloured cabochons and containing the tiniest tasseled comb and mirror. There was also a pair of French enamel opera glasses (how chic would they be at the ballet!), and a necklace with a metal chain shaped and textured like ribbon.

Another local spot, though not for the faint of heart, is Gadabout in the east end. I learned the hard way that an hour was not enough time here, and was quickly fooled by the affronting disarray - many things here cost more than I thought. I know some things in the below gallery aren’t jewelry per se, but they really are treasures. Some of my favourite finds included this multicoloured vintage tassel pouch ($185), and an ornately embroidered fringed piano shawl that reminds me of vintage Gucci ($485).

Give yourself a few hours here!

If you know me well enough, you’ll know that I find most special pieces in my closet at VSP Consignment - don’t sleep on their jewellery case. Though less heirloom/costume in nature than The Cat’s Meow, it’s astounding what gems (literally) will sneak their way in. I’ve been told that jewellery tends to be slower moving here because people simply walk past the display case in search of clothing.

Gems from the VSP jewellery case: an Hermès equestrian bangle, costume Prada earrings, and a medium Elsa Peretti bean that subsequently came home with me :)

This is not necessarily a cry to go out and purchase a slough of vintage jewellery. The conceit of it all is, in allowing ourselves to indulge in a little frivolity and whimsy - to play - we can illuminate and brighten current times. There’s a reason a ‘twinkle in the eye’ can be so captivating. Jewellery is the purveyor of a rich history, a vessel for expression, generating all around interest regarding the wearer. It’s a means of taking a capsule wardrobe to the next level without taking up too much space. It’s permits an escape from the banalities of winter, for both the wearer and the observer. Which brings me to my personal jewellery box:

Some larger scale pieces I’m leaning on to adorn my winter outfits: Elsa Peretti for Tiffany red bangle, Ayllon tassel necklace, Elsa Peretti bottle necklace, Sophie Buhai blue chalcedony necklace (similar one found here for under CAD$300), Agmes lily earrings, rose quartz bracelet from unknown designer.

These are pieces I’ve collected over many years, and all come from various brands, gifts, flea markets, and designers. While in warmer weather I’ve been a little lazier with statement jewellery (out of desire to wear As Little As Possible, and perhaps less metal for the heat), I’ve been making them the centrepiece (literally) of my outfits each day. I’ve recently styled pieces previously reserved for the holiday season and occasion dressing (read: rhinestones, crystals, copious amounts of sparkle and weight) as part of my everyday uniform. It makes the look less mundane. And the layering possibilities don’t stop at just the ‘initial’ outfit - I’ve taken great pleasure in layering longer necklaces over coats as I walk about. After all, it’s on the go when we’re seen the most.

Layering statement necklaces over coats, further integrating the coat into the outfit as a whole

Balancing costume earrings with a standard black coat for a look that's still slick but all the more interesting, even if you're just going to the grocery store

All that to say, play with your existing collection, and don’t forget to stop by the jewellery cases at every vintage/consignment store you go to! Perhaps you’ll discover a piece that will brighten your outfit and, subsequently, your day.

My favourite niche jewellery designers include:

• Casa Ayllon: I originally fell in love with this brand for their glass work, though I’m just as fascinated with their foray into leather and metal.

• Le Sundial: founder Silvia Dusci is just the chicest, and every piece she designs and sources feels like mermaid treasure.

• Nina Gordon: more sculptural and metallic, Nina’s pieces have been in my collection for almost a decade. I remember when she was called “Flash Jewellery”.

• Agmes: it’s no secret amongst the NY fashion girlies. Agmes is an OG brand, and their sculpted heart shaped pendant was one of my first jewellery purchases.

• Prounis: very much on the fine jewelry side of things, every one of their designs transports me to the Byzantine era.

• Dorsey: The message I’m preaching of loving heirloom jewelry isn’t unique by any means - Dorsey founder Megan Alida Strachan has been incorporating heirloom pieces into her simply elegant outfits since forever. Their pieces are cool and have a timeless feel, without the high jewelry prices.

• Corali: It’s my dream to have a tea set with at least four unique Corali spoons. I love how their designs play with more raw and organic metal textures, giving an unfinished that paradoxically feels more intricate and ornate.

• Simuero: perhaps a more budget version of Corali and with a focus on gold, their gem rings especially look as though they were molten around jewels from the deep sea.

• Dezso by Sara Beltrán: no wait, these are mermaid treasures. The high jewelry version (read: $$$).

• Brennan Studios: her custom works are absolutely beautiful and came recommended to me by the same friend who inspired me to get my watch.

• Blooming Dreamer: purveyor of iconic fish necklaces and other Mediterranean-inspired paraphernalia!

And for excellent purveyors of vintage jewels and objects alike:

• Noah Noah Noah: this is where I sourced my vintage 26mm Datejust. Noah is not only incredible at sourcing vibrant and exquisite pieces of impeccable quality, she makes every post a piece of visual candy. Holt Renfrew also stocks a few pieces she’s sourced.

• Jill Heller: she sources for The Row’s Melrose Place store. Need I say any more!

• Old Jewelry: perhaps you’ve already stumbled upon their delicious instagram page, but they have a showroom in Brooklyn worth visiting if you’re a collector.